This week we dive into the enigmatic world of Ambergris, a substance as shrouded in mystery as it is steeped in luxury. Let's unravel the secrets of this prized perfume ingredient.
AMBERGRIS: Not Whale Vomit, but Whale...Well, You Know.
Contrary to popular belief, Ambergris isn't whale vomit; it's more akin to...let's say, a 'nautical deposit' from the other end of a sperm whale. Shall I say it? Yes, it’s whale shit… well almost. And experts agree. Completely cruelty-free, this oddity forms in the whale's intestines and is released into the ocean, where it embarks on a transformative journey.
THE SCENT OF THE SEA...AND MORE
Ambergris is largely composed of a compound called ambrein, which is odourless in its pure form. This substance undergoes a chemical transformation after the Ambergris is expelled by the whale, interacting with salt water and sunlight over time. It's this transformation that gradually develops Ambergris's distinctive and sought-after fragrance.
Over time, Ambergris takes on a unique marine quality, mingling the animalic essences of its origin with the salty nuances of the ocean. In perfumery, it's celebrated for the mysterious 'je ne sais quoi' it lends to fragrances – a certain inexplicable depth and allure.
This fact underscores the relatively mundane yet crucial chemical processes behind the creation of one of the world's most exotic and valuable perfume ingredients.
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FAQ: Who on earth figured out that whale poo would be a nice addition to a perfume…?
The discovery of Ambergris for use in perfumery is shrouded in as much mystery as the substance itself. There isn't a definitive record of the first use of Ambergris in perfumery, but it's believed to have been used for centuries, possibly dating back to ancient times.
One theory suggests that Ambergris was discovered for its fragrance properties when pieces of it were found washed up on beaches. Due to its peculiar, pleasant aroma after years of oxidation and exposure to the sun and saltwater, people might have experimented with it and realized its potential in enhancing and fixing scents.
Its use was eventually refined and became highly prized in high-end perfumery, particularly in the Middle East and Europe, where it was valued not only for its unique scent but also for its ability to make other fragrances last longer.
The exact origins of its use in perfumery may remain a bit of a mystery, akin to the elusive nature of Ambergris itself, but its impact on the world of fragrance is indisputable and continues to be revered to this day.
THE DARK UNDERBELLY OF THE AMBERGRIS TRADE
Ambergris is rare, and its high value has spawned an underground world reminiscent of a mafia movie. In places like New Zealand, professional hunters vie for this 'floating gold,' with beachside rivalries that can get alarmingly intense. Christopher Kemp's book "Floating Gold" peeks into this world, revealing a less talked about, darker side of the Ambergris trade. His research and exposure of the trade lead to sinister letters and even death threats.
AMBERGRIS IN PERFUMERY: A LUXURIOUS FIXATIVE
Extracted via tincture in alcohol at varying strengths, Ambergris is added at the end of the perfume-making process. It acts as a fixative, enhancing and prolonging the life of the scent. While synthetic alternatives like Ambroxan attempt to mimic its effect, they fall short of capturing Ambergris's true essence.
FAKES, TESTS, AND THE REAL DEAL
Beware, my fellow scent enthusiasts, as the market is rife with faux Ambergris. I once received what was claimed to be Ambergris from a hunter in New Zealand, only to find it was nothing more than pumice stone. A hot needle test can help discern the genuine article, but even this isn't foolproof.
THE MOBY DICK CONNECTION
A lesser-known fact about Ambergris is its literary cameo in Herman Melville's famous novel 'Moby Dick.' In the book, Melville dedicates an entire chapter to this mysterious substance, describing it as 'a sweet and musky odor... that is as if the fragrance of some deep sweet woods had been mingled with their fragrance.' This nod to Ambergris in such a significant literary work underlines its historical and cultural importance, long before its value was fully recognized in modern perfumery.
BELOW: Two snippets from “Floating Gold” by Christopher Kemp.
Dear Dr. Clarke, I did have another question for you. I've always pronounced ambergris without the “s” at the end, like the French from which the name is derived. Like this and ambergree. Others I've spoken with have pronounced the “s”, but softly like this, ambergrizz. How do you pronounce it?
All the very best!
ck
Dear Mr. Kemp,
Like all those with whom I have spoken about ambergris I pronounce the word like this: ambergreez, and I recommend that you do the same. After all, you are not French, are you?
Yours,
Robert
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“In some quarters, it’s a matter of French pride to use ambergris. French perfumery is more traditional.
American perfumery, they are only thinking about making profits, so they will use synthetic ambergris, Ambroxan. You can substitute butter by margarine, but it’s not the same.” Bernard Perrin
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IF YOU GO DOWN TO THE BEACH TODAY, YOU'RE SURE OF A BIG SURPRISE…
There are many newsworthy tales of people randomly stumbling across a big piece of ambergris whilst strolling the sands of their local beach and benefitting highly from the sale of it to traders in the industry. One couple in Lancashire, England, recently stumbled upon a lump of it washed up on the beach. How much was their find worth? A cool $71,000.
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A PERSONAL ENCOUNTER OF THE LUXURIOUS KIND
I once had the privilege of holding a lump of genuine Ambergris at the Beauty World expo in Dubai, worth a staggering $150,000! The experience was nothing short of surreal, a tangible connection to the lore and allure of this substance.
Until next week on the blog, may your fragrance adventures be as intriguing and mysterious as the story of Ambergris.
